A short history
Captain James Cook is often credited with New Zealand’s first European brew. In 1773, his crew made a spruce beer using local rimu and mānuka leaves to fight scurvy. Settlers set up breweries through the 19th century, and hops were planted in the sunny Nelson region from the 1840s, helped by German settlers.
The 20th century was shaped by temperance. From 1917 until 1967, pubs had to close at 6pm, leading to the notorious “six o’clock swill.” Industry consolidation followed, and for decades two big groups, Lion and Dominion Breweries, controlled most of the market. Their signature product, “New Zealand Draught,” was a sweetish amber lager, sometimes fermented using a continuous process pioneered by local brewer Morton Coutts.
Meanwhile, government plant scientists were breeding new hops. Varieties such as Green Bullet, Motueka, Riwaka and Nelson Sauvin emerged from research programmes, eventually making New Zealand hops a global sensation.
The beer culture
Kiwis are relaxed, outdoorsy drinkers. Beer goes with rugby, barbecues, beaches and the classic weekend “bach” (holiday home). The craft scene exploded from the 2000s, and Wellington now calls itself the craft beer capital of New Zealand, with a remarkable number of taprooms per head.
New Zealand hops are grown free of many pests and diseases found elsewhere, so they are often cultivated without heavy chemical treatments. Their flavours are distinctive: Nelson Sauvin evokes Sauvignon Blanc grapes and gooseberry, while Motueka brings lime and lemon. Brewers worldwide compete for the limited supply.
The annual Beervana festival in Wellington is a highlight of the craft calendar.
Signature styles
- NZ Pilsner: a crisp lager with bright, fruity New Zealand hop aromas, a style championed by breweries like Emerson’s.
- NZ Pale Ale: tropical, citrusy and very drinkable.
- NZ Draught: the classic amber lager of pubs and sports clubs.
- Hazy IPA: juicy modern ales that show off Kiwi hops.
Traveler’s tip
Base yourself in Wellington for a walkable brewery crawl, then drive to Nelson, where a craft beer trail links breweries through vineyards and hop gardens. Hop harvest runs from late February to March, the best time for fresh-hop beers. Pack for all seasons: the weather can change in minutes.