The story
In colonial North America, barley malt was often scarce or expensive, and early settlers turned to what they could grow. Pumpkins, native to the Americas, were plentiful and full of sugar, so they sometimes went into the brewing kettle alongside or instead of malt. A well-known seventeenth-century colonial folk song even jokes about making drink from pumpkins, parsnips and walnut-tree chips when nothing better was available.
As malt became easier to obtain, pumpkin beer faded away. Its modern revival is usually credited to Buffalo Bill’s Brewery in Hayward, California, which released a pumpkin ale in the 1980s. Since then, pumpkin beers have become a seasonal fixture in American bars every autumn — some would say a little too early each year.
What it tastes like
Most pumpkin beers are amber to copper ales with an off-white head. The aroma is dominated by spice: cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, clove and ginger, very much like pumpkin pie. The malt adds toasty, caramel and sometimes brown sugar notes, while the pumpkin itself contributes a subtle earthy sweetness and body. Bitterness is usually low to keep the spices in focus. Stronger “imperial” versions can be rich and dessert-like.
How it’s made
Brewers typically start with an amber ale or similar malty base. Pumpkin can be added as roasted chunks or purée in the mash, in the boil, or even in the fermenter. Because pumpkin itself has a fairly mild flavour, most of the characteristic taste comes from the spice blend, usually added late in the boil or during conditioning. Balancing the spices so they complement rather than overwhelm the beer is the main challenge.
Fun fact
Many drinkers who say they love the taste of pumpkin beer are actually loving the spices. Pumpkin on its own is fairly bland — which is why some breweries have made convincing “pumpkin” beers with little or no pumpkin at all.