The story
In the farming region of Hainaut in French-speaking Wallonia, farmhouses once brewed beer in the cooler months to store for the busy summer. Seasonal farm workers — the saisonniers — were reportedly given a daily ration as part of their wages. These beers varied wildly from farm to farm, but they were generally light, dry and refreshing, made to quench thirst during long days in the fields.
As farming modernised in the twentieth century, farmhouse brewing all but disappeared. A handful of breweries kept the tradition alive, most famously Brasserie Dupont in Tourpes, which has been producing its Saison Dupont since the early twentieth century. American craft brewers later embraced the style, and today saison is one of the most creative and varied beer families in the world.
What it tastes like
Saison is a style defined more by character than by rigid rules. Most are pale orange-gold and slightly hazy, with a big, rocky white head. The aroma is lively: peppery spice, citrus, earthy hops, sometimes hints of pear or bubblegum. On the palate it is highly carbonated, with a light to medium body and a bone-dry finish. There may be a subtle tartness or rustic funk. Stronger, darker and spiced versions all exist.
How it’s made
The grist often centres on Pilsner malt, sometimes with wheat, spelt or other grains. Hops are generally European varieties that add earthy or spicy notes. The real star is the yeast: saison strains are known for high attenuation, peppery phenols, and a love of warm fermentation temperatures. Many saisons are bottle-conditioned, and some include Brettanomyces or spices.
Fun fact
Saison yeasts are unusually good at producing dry beer. Genetic research has shown that many of them carry a gene called STA1, which lets them break down starches most brewing yeasts can’t touch. That is a big part of why saisons finish so remarkably dry.