A short history
Scotland’s brewing heritage is ancient. Archaeologists have found evidence of fermented drinks at Neolithic sites in Orkney and elsewhere, and legends tell of the Picts guarding a secret recipe for heather ale. Hops don’t grow easily in Scotland’s cool climate, so historically Scottish brewers used fewer of them and let malt take centre stage.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Edinburgh and Alloa became major brewing centres, supplying markets across the British Empire. Scottish brewers adopted an old tax-based naming system based on the price per barrel in shillings, which is why you still see beers labelled 60/-, 70/-, 80/- and 90/-. The higher the number, the stronger the beer. Much of the industry consolidated in the 20th century, but a craft revival began in the 1990s.
The beer culture
Scotland is better known worldwide for whisky, but the two drinks are close relatives: both start with malted barley, and whisky begins life as a kind of unhopped beer called “wash.” Many pubs offer a “hauf an’ hauf,” a half pint of beer with a dram of whisky.
The modern craft scene is lively. BrewDog, founded in Aberdeenshire in 2007, became a global brand, and dozens of smaller breweries now operate from Shetland to the Borders. Williams Bros revived heather ale with its Fraoch brand, while other brewers experiment with seaweed, Scots pine and gooseberries, drawing on traditional local ingredients.
Signature styles
- Scottish Light, Heavy and Export: the 60/-, 70/- and 80/- ales, malty, clean and lightly hopped.
- Wee Heavy (Strong Scotch Ale): rich, full-bodied and caramel-heavy, often 7–10% ABV, a warming winter treat.
- Heather Ale: a historic style flavoured with heather flowers, floral and gently herbal.
- Gruit and botanical ales: modern takes on pre-hop brewing using local plants.
Traveler’s tip
Pair a visit to Edinburgh with a stop at one of its traditional pubs on the Royal Mile or Rose Street, then head north to explore breweries in the Highlands and Islands. Island breweries on Orkney and Skye are well worth the ferry ride. Pack a waterproof jacket: the weather changes fast, and a warm pub is always welcome.