A short history
Brewing in southern Africa long predates European contact. Communities brewed beers from sorghum and millet, grains native to the continent, for everyday nourishment and ceremonies. Among Xhosa and Zulu people, umqombothi, a cloudy, sour beer made from maize, sorghum malt and water, is still central to rituals honouring ancestors, weddings, coming-of-age ceremonies and funerals.
European brewing arrived with Dutch settlers at the Cape in the 17th century. The gold rush of the 1880s brought thousands of thirsty miners to Johannesburg, and in 1895 South African Breweries (SAB) was founded there. SAB’s Castle Lager became a national icon. The company grew into SABMiller, one of the largest brewers in the world, before merging with AB InBev in 2016.
The apartheid era left scars on drinking culture. Colonial and apartheid governments restricted Black South Africans’ ability to brew and drink, and sought to control and profit from sorghum beer halls. This drove the rise of shebeens, informal and often illegal bars in townships, which became important social and political spaces.
The beer culture
Umqombothi is still brewed at home, often by women, in large drums. It ferments over a few days, giving it a creamy, sour, slightly yeasty character and low alcohol, usually around 3%. It is typically shared from a single vessel, and a portion may be offered to the ancestors first. Commercial sorghum beers are also sold in cartons.
Lagers dominate the mainstream, enjoyed at the braai (barbecue) and at rugby and football matches. Today’s shebeens, now licensed taverns, remain lively community hubs. Since the 2000s, craft breweries have spread from Cape Town to Johannesburg, using local ingredients like rooibos, honeybush and buchu.
Signature styles
- Umqombothi: traditional sorghum and maize beer, cloudy, sour and nourishing.
- South African Lager: crisp, clean and served cold.
- Castle-style Lager: the classic national brand’s pale, gently bitter profile.
- Craft Pale Ale: fruity ales, sometimes with South African hops such as Southern Passion.
Traveler’s tip
Explore Cape Town’s craft breweries in Woodstock, then take a guided township tour that includes a visit to a tavern. If you are offered umqombothi at a celebration, accept with gratitude and follow your hosts’ lead.